Friday, November 22, 2019

Free Knit Pattern-- Feminine Sani Pouch

By    November 22, 2019 //



Need to find a way to be discreet when it’s that time of the month? This quick and easy pattern is the perfect pouch to keep your sanitary napkins out of sight.

I really love making practical things. This design was initiated because one of my children found my empty pouch and hid it. The one they hid was one that was made out of fabric and sewn. Unfortunately it's been years since I touched a sewing machine and I just don't have the time at this stage of my life to relearn. (Kids keep me way too busy.)

This pattern is a very quick one. Hope you enjoy it!

Pattern

For an inexpensive ad-free PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry. 

To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.


Materials

-1 skeins of Lion Brands Comfy Cotton Blend
-5.5mm (circular) knitting needles
-5.5mm crochet hook
-stitch markers
-tapestry needle

Abbreviations

sts-stitches

Gauge

9 sts and 9 rows = 2 inches

Measurements

Pouch approximately 4.25” length (not including flap) by 4.5” wide

Due to the nature of knitting, measurements can vary as pieces can be stretched. 

Pouch

Cast on 22

Row 1: knit 

Row 2: purl

Row 3-50: repeat row 1 and 2

Row 51: bind off the first two sts (knitwise), knit until you have 2 sts left, bind off (knitwise)

Row 52: bind off the first two sts (purlwise), purl until you have 2sts left, bind off the last 2 sts

Row 53-54: repeat row 51 and 52

Row 55: bind off 7 sts (which brings you to the center)

Take a 5.5mm crochet hook and chain 4.




Slip the last chain onto the left needle to continue binding off your work, bind off to the end. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Count up 43 rows from the bottom and use a stitch marker on either ends of pouch panel piece.

Fold up from the bottom to row 43 with the right side facing out. Mattress stitch down the sides of the panel starting from the stitch markers. Weave in your ends. 

Ribbon

Cast on 8.

Row 1-14: knit
BO knitwise



Take some yarn and leaving a tail start winding the yarn around the center of the ribbon panel. Wind the yarn as much to your liking and tie off the end with the tail that you left from the beginning. You will take the tails to secure it to the pouch.

Center your ribbon in the middle of the pouch. The ribbon will act as a “button” so that you can use the loop on the flap of the pouch to close it.


Let's keep in touch. Connect with me on my socials. See you there!




Happy crocheting!

This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way. 


Wednesday, May 15, 2019

Free Crochet Pattern-- Norma Jean Sweater

By    May 15, 2019 //

The Norma Jean Sweater is a very relaxed boyfriend style pullover which is great for any casual outing. This crocheted sweater utilizes the blueberry stitch. It was the first time I ever used it and it was quite fun. There's a lot of movement involved and crocheting this stitch didn't bore me like how some stitches do. The Norma Jean Sweater calls for Lion Brand's Jeans and I have to say that I really love this yarn. It is so soft and when it's crocheted, it is heavenly to wear.

If you have been following me from the start of my crochet/knit designing journey, then you probably know that this one took me ages to design. There was a lot of frogging involved in the designing process. I started off with the granite stitch but it was not working out for me. After the 3rd time frogging, I called it quits and moved onto the blueberry stitch. I'm happy with how this sweater turned out despite all the struggles I had with designing it. Doesn't it look great?

I hope that the Norma Jean Sweater will be a pattern that you end up crocheting, enjoying and wearing.

Pattern


 To purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern, visit Etsy or Ravelry.
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.



Materials

5 (5) Lion Brand Jeans in Stone Wash
3 (3) Lion Brand Jeans in Faded
5.0 and 5.5mm hook
stitch markers
tape measure

Measurements


Measurements are rough estimates as they can vary depending on how you lay your work (try not to stretch your piece into position as this can give you a false reading).  As long as you are within a half-inch from the suggested measurements, you should be okay.
S/M : 28” length, 26” width, 15” widest part of the arm
L/XL : 30” length, 28” wide, 16.5” widest part of the arm

Abbreviations


FDC– foundationless double crochet 
bpdc- back post double crochet 
fpdc- front post double crochet
ch– chain
sc– single crochet
dc-double crochet
st-stitch
sts-stitches
slst- slip stitch
**repeat from first asterisk to the second asterisk
()– At the end of each row, the number of stitches will be indicated for each size as follows (S/M, L/XL).

Gauge


Every 16 stitches and 12 rows = 4 inches

Notes

Please check your gauge. I recommend doing a swatch before beginning. Adjust your tension or hook size to achieve the gauge.
If you are finding your panels turning out smaller than anticipated, simply crochet more rows.
Sizing available in S/M and L/XL. The pattern is written as follows with L/XL in parentheses: S/M (L/XL).
Beginning chain counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
Front and back panels are worked from the bottom up.
Sleeves are worked from cuff to the widest part of your arm.
If you’d like to customize your size, start your FDC in multiples of 6 + 3.

Body (Make 2)

Row 1: With your main color and a 5.0 mm hook FDC 104 (111), turn your work (105, 112) 

 Row 2: ch 3 *fpdc in the next st, bpdc in the next st*, turn your work (105, 112)

 Ribbing section should measure 1 inch thick. Switch to a 5.5mm hook.

Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (105, 112)

 Row 4: sl st into the first st (pictures below) and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat til you have one st left, dc in the last st (105, 112)

 Row 5: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (105, 112)

 Row 6: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st in the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 2 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last st, turn your work (105, 112)

 Row 7-30: repeat rows 3-6 for a total of 7 times

 Switch to contrasting color

Row 31: repeat row 3

Row 32: repeat row 4

Switch to main color.

Row 33: repeat row 5

Row 34:  repeat row 6

Switch to contrasting color.

Row 35-70: Repeat rows 3-6

Row 71: Repeat row 3

Row 72: Repeat row 4

Row 73: Repeat row 5

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

After you make two panels, align your panels one on top of the other. Sew at the top from each end about 8"(9") inward leaving about a 10" hole for the neck. You may want to use a stitch holder to mark off where to stop sewing. If you'd like to have a smaller neck opening simply sew more, keeping in mind that you must do the same on the other side.


Sleeves (make 2)

Row 1: With your main color and a 5.0 mm hook FDC 41(47), turn your work (42, 48)
Row 2: ch 3 *fpdc in the next st, bpdc in the next st*, FPDC in the last st, turn your work (42, 48)
Ribbing section should measure 1 inch thick. Switch to 5.5mm hook.
Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (42, 48)

 Row 4: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (42, 48)

 Row 5: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (42, 48)

 Row 6: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (42, 48)

 Row 7: repeat row 3

 Row 8: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (42)

 Row 9: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 2sc in the first st, sc across til you have 1 st left, 2 sc in the last st, turn your work (44, 50)

 Row 10: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next st, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 5 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 4 sts, turn your work (44, 50)

Row 11: repeat row 9 (46, 52)

 Row 12: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 4 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 5 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (46, 52)

 Row 13: repeat row 9 (48, 54)

 Row 14: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (48, 54)

 Row 15: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (48, 54)

 Row 16: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (48, 54)

 Row 17: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (48, 54)

 Row 18: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (48, 54)

 Row 19: repeat row 17

 Row 20: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch 1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (48, 54)

 Switch to contrasting color



Row 21: repeat row 17

 Row 22: repeat row 18

 Switch to main color.

 Row 23: repeat row 17

 Row 24: repeat row 20

 Switch to contrasting color.

 Row 25-28: repeat rows 17-20

 Row 29: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 2sc in the first st, sc across til you have  1 st left, 2 sc in the last st, turn your work (50, 56)

 Row 30: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, *ch1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 2 sts left, dc in the last 2 sts, turn your work (50, 56)

 Row 31: repeat row 29 (52, 58)

 Row 32: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff st into the next st* repeat til you have 6 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 5 sts, turn your work (52, 58)

 Row 33: repeat row 29 (54, 60)

 Row 34: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff st into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (54, 60)

 Row 35: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (54, 60)

 Row 36: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (54, 60)

 Row 37: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (54, 60)

 Row 38: repeat row 34

 Row 39: repeat row 35

 Row 40: repeat row 36

 Row 41: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 2sc in the first st, sc across til you have 1 st left, 2 sc in the last st, turn your work (56, 62)

 Row 42: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, puff st into the next st, *ch1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff st into the next st* repeat til you have 5 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 4 sts, turn your work (56, 62)

 Row 43: repeat row 41 (58, 64)

 Row 44: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 4 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat til you have 5 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (58, 64)

 Row 45: repeat row 41 (60, 66)

 Row 46: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (60, 66)

 Row 47: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (60, 66)

 Row 48: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff st into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (60, 66)

 Row 49: repeat row 47 (60, 66)

If you would like the arms to be longer, simply repeat rows 46-49 and stop whichever row you'd like though I recommend ending after a single crochet row.


After all your loose ends are sewn in, take your tapestry needle and sew up your sleeves using the mattress stitch. I recommend using the same color yarn where you are seaming to avoid a different color showing. 

Flatten your sleeve so that the seamed side is facing downward. Align the top of your sleeve to the top of your front and back panels. Take your tapestry needle and a long strand of yarn in color Stonewash and seam the front part of your sleeve to the front panel starting from the armpit and down the back panel. Afterwards, seam the rest of the front and back panels together down the side. You can choose to seam all the way down to the end of the ribbing or leave a few inches untouched, which is what I did. Do the same thing to the other side of the sweater.

 Happy crocheting!



This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way. 



Monday, April 15, 2019

Free Crochet Pattern-- Bunny Keychain

By    April 15, 2019 //

Perfect for Easter and spring, this simple and quick bunny Amigurumi can be an accessory to your keys, purses, and book bags. Who can resist a cute bunny?

Mild tempered, timid, fluffy and cuddly bunnies would be a dream pet. But in household like mine, the poor bunnies would probably end up with strokes from being chased by little terrors; A.K.A my children.

Amigurumi is definitely something I struggle with as a designer. Not because I find it difficult to design, but because I absolutely hate tapestry work and working with tiny stitches. When I talk with Amigurumi designers, they tell me stories of crochet hooks breaking. I was shocked that it is fairly a common thing that happens to Amigurumists. So kudos to all of you makers who mainly make Amigurumi. You have my respect.


Pattern

For the ad-free and inexpensive PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry. 

 To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.


Materials

-any worsted weight yarn (lavender and pink, Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn was used in the picture)
-one pair of 9mm or 10 mm safety eyes
-stitch marker
-polyfil stuffing
-keychain of your choice
-3.5 mm or 4.0mm hook 
-tapestry needle

Abbreviations

sc- single crochet
invdec- invisible decrease 
st- stitch
sts-stitches
* Repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk 
MC- magic circle
( )- the number of stitches at the end of the round

Notes

-Everything is worked in continuous rounds.
-Make stitches tight as to not let the stuffing come through the stitches.
-Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

Ears (Make 2)

Round 1: with your lavender yarn create a MC and make 4 sc in the circle

Round 2: *2sc in next st, 1sc in next st* (6) 


At this time, pull the end to close the MC. 


Round 3-5: sc around 

Stuff the ear with polyfil stuffing

Round 6: invdec, sc to the end of the round (5)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Head


Round 1: Create a MC and crochet 6 sc in the MC

Round 2: 2sc into each st (12)

Round 3:  *1sc, 2sc * repeat  (18)

Round 4: *1sc in the next 2 sts, 2sc in the next* (24)

Round 5-7: sc around

Round 8: *sc in next two sts, invdec* (18)

Round 9: sc around

Sew in both ears.


Place safety eyes between rows 6 and 7 about 3-4 stitches apart.

Using contrasting yarn, make an x a row below and between the eyes for the nose. 



I like to attach my keychain at this time as well.

Round 10: *1 sc, invdec * (12)

Stuff the head with poly-fil

Round 11: invdec to the end (6)

Fasten off and leave a tail to close the head and weave in the end. Firmly stuff the head and close the opening by weaving in and out of the stitches. Weave in the remaining.

I hope you have enjoyed quick and easy bunny pattern. As always, leave your thoughts and comments down below. I would love to hear from you.
Happy crocheting!

 This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way. 

Thursday, March 28, 2019

Free Crochet Pattern-- Horizon Wrap

By    March 28, 2019 //


The Horizon Wrap has soft notes of pink and purple. It can really bring such a feminine touch to your look. This rectangle wrap can also act as a scarf for the winter months! 

I personally don't wear shawls or wraps too much but I do love scarves. When I browse through Instagram, I really admire all that you can do with a shawl in the design aspect. There are some really beautiful shawl designs out there and those posts inspired me to give wrap designing a shot. 

The Horizon Wrap is my very first shawl design but I look forward to growing as a designer to make some intricate and beautiful ones in the near future.

Pattern

To purchase an inexpensive PDF version of this pattern, visit Etsy or Ravelry
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.




Materials


4 skeins of Red Heart Unforgettable in Pearly
6.5mm hook
tapestry needle

Abbreviations


FHDC- foundationless half double crochet
ch- chain
hdc-half double crochet
dc-double crochet
st-stitch
sts-stitches
ch sp-chain space
*- repeat from first * to the second *
( ) - at the end of each row the number of stitches will be shown between the parentheses

Gauge


Half Double Crochet section 3.25 sts and 2.5 rows = 1”
Textured section (spatter pattern stitch) 2 rows = 1”

Measurements


69” long and 18” wide

Notes

-The length is created first with the foundationless half double crochet and the width is crocheted with each row.
-When you crochet the texturized section, try to keep your tension loose. It’s easy to tighten up with the chains that are crocheted in this section, which can result your piece to shrink in length as you crochet more and more rows.
-If you are unfamiliar with the foundationless half double crochet and would rather begin with a foundation chain, chain 226 and half double crochet in the 3rd chain from the hook and continue with half double crochet to the end.
-To alter the length of your wrap, chain multiples of 4 + 2 or FHDC multiples of 4 +1.



Let's begin...

FHDC 225

Row 1: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)

Row 2-5: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)

Row 6: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)

Row 7:  ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)

Row 8-11: repeat row 6 and 7 (225)

Row 12-16: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)

Row 17: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)

Row 18: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)

Row 19-22: repeat row 18 and 19 (225)

Row 23-27: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)

Row 28: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)

Row 29: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)

Row 30-33: repeat rows 28 and 29 (225)

Row 34-38: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)

I single crocheted up the sides of the wrap to give it a cleaner look. However, you can choose to leave it alone if you’d like.



Thank you for your support and I hope that you have enjoyed this pattern. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you ever run into any problems.

Happy crocheting!


This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way. 


Friday, March 22, 2019

Free Crochet Pattern-- Buzy Bee Keychain

By    March 22, 2019 //


The Buzy Bee Keychain is a quick and easy pattern. Bring a cute little bumble bee along for the ride without getting a sting in the butt because you accidentally sat on it.

 Honestly, I am not a huge bee fan at all. Sure I love their honey and sure I'm aware of their importance. BUUUUUUUUT, I've gotten stung enough times that I legit have a reason to not to like them.

But hey! Now I can say I like them as long as they're squishy and made out of yarn. I hope that you love this itty bitty busy bumble bee pattern!

Pattern

For the ad-free and inexpensive PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry. The PDF version comes with additional step-by-step pictures.

To pin this pattern for later, visit Pinterest.


Materials


-any worsted weight yarn (yellow, black, and white, Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn was used in the picture)
-one pair of 9mm or 10 mm safety eyes
-poly-fil stuffing
-a keychain of your choice
-3.5 mm or 4.0mm hook
-tapestry needle


Abbreviations


sc- single crochet
inc- single crochet increase (2 single crochets in 1 stitch)
invdec- invisible decrease  
slst- slip stitch
ch- chain
mc- magic circle   
* - repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk
( )- the number of stitches at the end of the round


Notes


Make stitches tight as to not let the stuffing come through the stitches. 
Chain 1 in the beginning of each round doesn’t count as a stitch.
Be careful not to slip stitch into the previous round’s slip stitch or to single crochet into it.


Wings (Make 2)

Ch6

Row 1:  dc into the 3rdch from the hook, hdc into the next ch, sc in the next 2 sts.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Body

Round 1: With yellow yarn, create a MR and crochet 6 sc into the ring

Round 2: *sc, 2sc in the next* repeat 3 times, sl st into the next st (9)

Round 3: ch1, sc in the same st as your slst, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, *sc in the next 2 sts, 2sc in the next* repeat 2 times, sl st into the next st (12)

Round 4: ch1, sc in the same st as your slst, sc in the next 2 sts , 2 sc in the next st, *sc in the next 3 sts, 2sc in the next* repeat 2 times, sl st into the next st (15)

Round 5: ch1, sc in the same st as your slst, sc around into the next 14 sts, sl st into the next st (switch to black yarn when pulling up a loop for your slip stitch) (15)

Insert your hook into the next stitch to slip stitch.

Yarn over with the black and pull through all loops on your hook. Leave your yellow yarn because you will pick it back up later.


Round 6: ch 1, sc in the same spot as where you slst into, sc around in the next 14 sts, slst in the next st (15)

 Round 7: ch 1, sc in the same spot as where you slst into, sc around in the next 14 sts, slst in the next st (switch to yellow yarn when pulling up a loop for your slip stitch) (15)

Put your safety eyes in now and get some black yarn to sew in your smile.  Place your eyes between rows 3 and 4 and 3-4 sts apart. Hold your Amigurumi so that the slip stitched are facing downward and the least visible. 

Round 8: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, sc around in the next 14 sts, sl st in the next st (15)

Round 9: ch1, sc in to the st where you last sl st into, sc around in the next 14 sts, sl st in the next st (15)

Sew in your wings, half of the wing over a row of black and the other half over a row of yellow. Refer to picture.  





Row 10: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, sc in the next 2 sts, invdec in the next st *sc in the next 3 sts, invdec* repeat 2 times, sl st in the next st (12)

Row 11: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, sc in the next st, invdec in the next st *sc in the next 2 sts, invdec* repeat 2 times, sl st in the next st (9)

Stuff your bee with poly-fil.

Row 12: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, invdec *sc in the next sts, invdec* repeat 2 times, sl st in the next st (6)

Fasten off, stuff the rest of your bee firmly and close your bee’s rear end. Weave in any loose ends. 

Attach your keychain between the bee’s two wings.


I hope that this pattern was a fun one for you and that your buzy bee gets to accompany you on many sweet trips.


Happy crocheting!






This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.