Wednesday, May 15, 2019

Free Crochet Pattern-- Norma Jean Sweater


The Norma Jean Sweater is a very relaxed boyfriend style pullover which is great for any casual outing. This crocheted sweater utilizes the blueberry stitch. It was the first time I ever used it and it was quite fun. There's a lot of movement involved and crocheting this stitch didn't bore me like how some stitches do. The Norma Jean Sweater calls for Lion Brand's Jeans and I have to say that I really love this yarn. It is so soft and when it's crocheted, it is heavenly to wear.

If you have been following me from the start of my crochet/knit designing journey, then you probably know that this one took me ages to design. There was a lot of frogging involved in the designing process. I started off with the granite stitch but it was not working out for me. After the 3rd time frogging, I called it quits and moved onto the blueberry stitch. I'm happy with how this sweater turned out despite all the struggles I had with designing it. Doesn't it look great?

I hope that the Norma Jean Sweater will be a pattern that you end up crocheting, enjoying and wearing.

Pattern


To purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern, visit Etsy or Ravelry.
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.





Materials

5 (5) Lion Brand Jeans in Stone Wash
3 (3) Lion Brand Jeans in Faded
5.0 and 5.5mm hook
stitch markers
tape measure


Measurements

Measurements are rough estimates as they can vary depending on how you lay your work (try not to stretch your piece into position as this can give you a false reading).  As long as you are within a half-inch from the suggested measurements, you should be okay.
S/M : 28” length, 26” width, 15” widest part of the arm
L/XL : 30” length, 28” wide, 16.5” widest part of the arm

Abbreviations


FDC– foundationless double crochet 
bpdc- back post double crochet 
fpdc- front post double crochet
ch– chain
sc– single crochet
dc-double crochet
st-stitch
sts-stitches
slst- slip stitch
**repeat from first asterisk to the second asterisk
()– At the end of each row, the number of stitches will be indicated for each size as follows (S/M, L/XL).

Gauge

Every 16 stitches and 12 rows = 4 inches


Notes

Please check your gauge. I recommend doing a swatch before beginning. Adjust your tension or hook size to achieve the gauge.
If you are finding your panels turning out smaller than anticipated, simply crochet more rows.
Sizing available in S/M and L/XL. The pattern is written as follows with L/XL in parentheses: S/M (L/XL).
Beginning chain counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
Front and back panels are worked from the bottom up.
Sleeves are worked from cuff to the widest part of your arm.
If you’d like to customize your size, start your FDC in multiples of 6 + 3.

Body (Make 2)

Row 1: With your main color and a 5.0 mm hook FDC 104 (111), turn your work (105, 112) 

Row 2: ch 3 *fpdc in the next st, bpdc in the next st*, turn your work (105, 112)

Ribbing section should measure 1 inch thick. Switch to a 5.5mm hook.

Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (105, 112)

Row 4: sl st into the first st (pictures below) and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat til you have one st left, dc in the last st (105, 112)

Row 5: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (105, 112)

Row 6: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st in the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 2 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last st, turn your work (105, 112)

Row 7-30: repeat rows 3-6 for a total of 7 times

Switch to contrasting color

Row 31: repeat row 3

Row 32: repeat row 4

Switch to main color.

Row 33: repeat row 5

Row 34:  repeat row 6

Switch to contrasting color.

Row 35-70: Repeat rows 3-6

Row 71: Repeat row 3

Row 72: Repeat row 4

Row 73: Repeat row 5

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.


After you make two panels, align your panels one on top of the other. Sew at the top from each end about 8"(9") inward leaving about a 10" hole for the neck. You may want to use a stitch holder to mark off where to stop sewing. If you'd like to have a smaller neck opening simply sew more, keeping in mind that you must do the same on the other side.



Sleeves (make 2)

Row 1: With your main color and a 5.0 mm hook FDC 41(47), turn your work (42, 48)
Row 2: ch 3 *fpdc in the next st, bpdc in the next st*, FPDC in the last st, turn your work (42, 48)
Ribbing section should measure 1 inch thick. Switch to 5.5mm hook.
Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (42, 48)

Row 4: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (42, 48)

Row 5: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (42, 48)

Row 6: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (42, 48)

Row 7: repeat row 3

Row 8: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (42)

Row 9: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 2sc in the first st, sc across til you have 1 st left, 2 sc in the last st, turn your work (44, 50)

Row 10: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next st, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 5 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 4 sts, turn your work (44, 50)

Row 11: repeat row 9 (46, 52)

Row 12: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 4 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 5 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (46, 52)

Row 13: repeat row 9 (48, 54)

Row 14: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (48, 54)

Row 15: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (48, 54)

Row 16: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (48, 54)

Row 17: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (48, 54)

Row 18: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (48, 54)

Row 19: repeat row 17

Row 20: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch 1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (48, 54)

Switch to contrasting color





Row 21: repeat row 17

Row 22: repeat row 18

Switch to main color.

Row 23: repeat row 17

Row 24: repeat row 20

Switch to contrasting color.

Row 25-28: repeat rows 17-20

Row 29: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 2sc in the first st, sc across til you have  1 st left, 2 sc in the last st, turn your work (50, 56)

Row 30: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, *ch1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff stitch into the next st* repeat til you have 2 sts left, dc in the last 2 sts, turn your work (50, 56)

Row 31: repeat row 29 (52, 58)

Row 32: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff st into the next st* repeat til you have 6 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 5 sts, turn your work (52, 58)

Row 33: repeat row 29 (54, 60)

Row 34: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff st into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (54, 60)

Row 35: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (54, 60)

Row 36: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (54, 60)

Row 37: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (54, 60)

Row 38: repeat row 34

Row 39: repeat row 35

Row 40: repeat row 36

Row 41: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 2sc in the first st, sc across til you have 1 st left, 2 sc in the last st, turn your work (56, 62)

Row 42: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, puff st into the next st, *ch1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff st into the next st* repeat til you have 5 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 4 sts, turn your work (56, 62)

Row 43: repeat row 41 (58, 64)

Row 44: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 4 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat til you have 5 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (58, 64)

Row 45: repeat row 41 (60, 66)

Row 46: sl st into the first st and ch 3, dc in the next 2 sts, *ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, ch1 skip a st, dc in the next 3 sts* repeat until you have 3 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, puff st into the next st, dc in the last st, turn your work (60, 66)

Row 47: ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc across, turn your work (60, 66)

Row 48: sl st into the first st and ch 3, puff st into the next st, *ch 1 and skip the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, ch1 and skip the next st, puff st into the next st* repeat til you have 4 sts left, ch1 and skip a st, dc in the last 3 sts, turn your work (60, 66)

Row 49: repeat row 47 (60, 66)

If you would like the arms to be longer, simply repeat rows 46-49 and stop whichever row you'd like though I recommend ending after a single crochet row.




After all your loose ends are sewn in, take your tapestry needle and sew up your sleeves using the mattress stitch. I recommend using the same color yarn where you are seaming to avoid a different color showing. 

Flatten your sleeve so that the seamed side is facing downward. Align the top of your sleeve to the top of your front and back panels. Take your tapestry needle and a long strand of yarn in color Stonewash and seam the front part of your sleeve to the front panel starting from the armpit and down the back panel. Afterwards, seam the rest of the front and back panels together down the side. You can choose to seam all the way down to the end of the ribbing or leave a few inches untouched, which is what I did. Do the same thing to the other side of the sweater.

Happy crocheting!





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