Showing posts with label shrug. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shrug. Show all posts
Please give a warm welcome to the Elsa Shawl. This knit shawl was inspired by Disney's Frozen Elsa.
To pin it for later, visit Pinterest.
The Elsa Shawl is a knit wrap that uses Yarn Bee's Marblesque. This yarn is considered a worsted weight yarn so if this yarn is not available near you, I recommend looking for a thinner worsted weight yarn.
The beautiful lace work that is worked on this shawl is called the twin leaf lace panel. The look of this lacing reminded me of the way the snow and ice whisked whenever Elsa used her powers. Hence, this shawl was so named the Elsa Shawl.
I am not a shawl wearer but lately I have been really enjoying designing them so I can guarantee that more shawl designs will be coming out this year.
In this blog post, you will find picture tutorials to guide you through the garter tab cast on and the i-cord bind off which are both used in this shawl.
Garter Tab Cast On
Cast on 3.
Row 1-6: Knit
Rotate your work 90 degrees, pick up 3 stitches with your left needle and knit.
You should now have 6 stitches on your right needle.
Rotate your work 90 degrees again and pick up 3 stitches with your left needle. Knit.
You should now have 9 stitches on your right hand needle.
You have successfully completed the garter tab cast on.
I-Cord Bind Off
Cast on 2 stitches.
To cast on, knit the first stitch on your left needle as you normally would.
Instead of slipping off the knitted stitch, leave it on your left hand needle and slip the stitch that you created on your right hand needle to your left.
*Knit 2. Then knit the next 2 stitches together through the back loops.
To perform this, take your right needle and slip your needle from the back through the second stitch and then in through the first. Knit as you normally would.
The pictures below are pictures of how k2togtbl looks like. These pictures were not taken during the i-cord bind off but k2tbl is performed the same way.
Repeat from * til you have 3 sts in total left, slip the 3 stitches on your right hand needle to the left hand needle, k2togtbl, k1, slip last 2 sts back to the left hand needle, k2togtbl, Fasten off.
I hope that these picture tutorials have helped you get through some of the stitches in your Elsa Shawl. If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out to me.
Happy knitting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
I hope that these picture tutorials have helped you get through some of the stitches in your Elsa Shawl. If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out to me.
Happy knitting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
Meet the Pumpkin Spice Cocoon everyone! I just love designing cocoons. Not only pretty but really practical. Just throw on a shrug over your clothes and BAM! You got a complete ensemble. The crochet cocoon has the most amazing texture. It really pops and there's just no way you won't get compliments wearing it.
It's been a while since I picked up my crochet hook and designed something. I've been hooked on knitting lately but I knew that I needed to make a new crochet design. I love how quick crochet is. It takes me a fraction of the time to design a crochet garment than it does knitting for the obvious reason that you can double up on the height of the stitches with crochet. Don't get me wrong though. It took me awhile to get this design together. I frogged it 4 times total. People don't call me the frogging queen for nothing. I had this cocoon nearly finished and then frogged the entire thing because I was not happy with the way it came out especially with my gauge.
Who here is a tight crocheter? I definitely lean towards the side of being a tight crocheter and had to learn how to loosen up. I would always start off great only to find out that I would crochet tighter and tighter as the rows continued.
Anyways, I hope that you enjoy this crochet pattern. And remember tight crocheters, relax and let it loose when you crochet cause you'll definitely need it for this one.
Pattern
To pin this pattern for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
-6.0mm and 6.5mm crochet hook
-6 (7) skeins of Lion Brand Heartland
-tapestry needle
Gauge
Every 10.5 rows and 12 stitches equals 4 inches basket weave
HDC: 11 sts and 8 rows equals 4 “
Measurements
Body Panel S/M (25” length, 39” width), L/XL (26” length, 44.5” width)
Notes
If you are unfamiliar with the foundationless double crochet, chain in multiples of 8 + 8. Double crochet into the 4th ch from your hook and double crochet to the end of the row.
Beginning ch 2 counts as a half double crochet throughout.
Do not crochet into the stitch, the beginning chains stem off from.
Happy crocheting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Horizon Wrap has soft notes of pink and purple. It can really bring such a feminine touch to your look. This rectangle wrap can also act as a scarf for the winter months!
I personally don't wear shawls or wraps too much but I do love scarves. When I browse through Instagram, I really admire all that you can do with a shawl in the design aspect. There are some really beautiful shawl designs out there and those posts inspired me to give wrap designing a shot.
The Horizon Wrap is my very first shawl design but I look forward to growing as a designer to make some intricate and beautiful ones in the near future.
Pattern
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
4 skeins of Red Heart Unforgettable in Pearly
6.5mm hook
tapestry needleGauge
Half Double Crochet section 3.25 sts and 2.5 rows = 1”
Textured section (spatter pattern stitch) 2 rows = 1”
Measurements
69”long and 18” wide
Notes
-The length is created first with the foundationless half double crochet and the width is crocheted with each row.
-When you crochet the texturized section, try to keep your tension loose. It’s easy to tighten up with the chains that are crocheted in this section, which can result your piece to shrink in length as you crochet more and more rows.
-If you are unfamiliar with the foundationless half double crochet and would rather begin with a foundation chain, chain 226 and half double crochet in the 3rd chain from the hook and continue with half double crochet to the end.
-To alter the length of your wrap, chain multiples of 4 + 2 or FHDC multiples of 4 +1.
Pattern
FHDC 225
Row 1: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 2-5: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 6: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)
Row 7: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)
Row 8-11: repeat row 6 and 7 (225)
Row 12-16: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 17: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)
Row 18: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)
Row 19-22: repeat row 18 and 19 (225)
Row 23-27: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 28: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)
Row 29: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)
Row 30-33: repeat rows 28 and 29 (225)
Row 34-38: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Hope you enjoyed this pattern and happy crocheting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Fauxy Cocoon is by far my most worn crocheted item that I personally designed. The shrug is made with Lion Brand's Go For Faux and Coboo. Not only are these two yarns soft, it really brings the heat. If you are someone who easily gets cold, please don't hesitate with this one. You will want to hibernate in it all winter long.
When Lion Brand released the Go For Faux yarn, I couldn't resist ordering a dozen skeins of it and I am so glad that I did. I couldn't stop petting the skeins when my box arrived and then it dawned on me that I had no idea what to do them. Then I wondered how this yarn would feel like if I had it wrapped around my body. I'm so happy that I ended up designing this cocoon because it saved me from a very cold winter last year.
Pattern
For the ad-free and inexpensive PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry. The PDF version comes with additional step-by-step pictures for the collar and cuffs.
Materials
-10.0mm hook
-5.5 mm hook
-tapestry needle
-lint roller
Gauge
Body: every 7 stitches and 4 rows = 4"
Ribbing: every 6 stitches and 7 rows = 2"
Measurements
The body (essentially a rectangle) in S/M is roughly around 33“ x 36” and for L/XL 35”x 38”.
For S/M, the width of your rectangle should measure 33" across and for L/X 35" across. Adjust your tension or switch to a different hook size if needed.
Small/Medium: Wrist to Wrist 50 “, Length from top to bottom 38”
Large/X-Large: Wrist-to-Wrist 52”, Length from top to bottom 40”
Keep in mind that when worn, it has the ability to stretch.
Abbreviations
ch- chain
slst- slip stitch
st(s)- stitch(es)
sp(s)- spaces
sc- single crochet
dc- double
dc2tog-double crochet 2 together
rSC- reverse single crochet
Notes
Please check your gauge. I recommend doing a swatch before beginning. Adjust your tension or hook size to achieve the gauge.
If you would like to make your cocoon smaller or larger, simply chain an odd number plus 4 for your starting chain or simply crochet more rows.
If you are finding your rectangle turning out smaller than anticipated, simply crochet more rows.
Beginning chain counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
Pattern
Chain 59 (63)
Row 1: dc into the 5th ch from the hook (counts as a dc and a st), *ch 1 and skip a st, dc in the next st* repeat to the end, ch 3, turn your work (57 (28 ch sps and 29 dc), 61 (30 ch sps and 31 dc))
Row 2: ch3, *dc into the next ch sp, ch 1 and skip a st* repeat to the end, dc in the last ch sp, turn your work (57, 61)
Row 3-36 (38) : Repeat row 2
Lay your finished piece on the floor with the foundation chain on the left and the last row on the right.
Fold your piece in half by pulling the top down to the bottom.
With your tapestry needle and some Coboo yarn, sew up the sides stopping at the double crochets after the 7th chain space. (Make sure that all double crochets and chain spaces are aligned to their respective counterparts.)
I used the mattress stitch to seam up the sides of the body.
You should have 14 (16) chain spaces that are not seamed. We will continue working into these chain spaces to create a sleeve.
We will work in one direction for the remainder of the sleeve.
With your 10.0mm hook, attach the faux fur yarn to the last double crochet where you seamed.
Sleeves
Row 1: ch3 (counts as a st and ch 1 and for the remainder of the sleeve), dc into the first ch1 sp, *ch 1 and skip a st, dc into the next ch sp* repeat to the end, ch1 slst into the first ch sp of the row (15 ch sps, 17 ch sps)
Row 2: ch3, dc2tog in the next two ch sps , *ch 1 and skip a st, dc into the next ch sp* repeat until you have two ch sps left, ch1, dc2tog in the last two ch sps, slst into the turning chain (13 ch sps, 15 ch sps)
*Note*
Row 3: ch3, dc2tog (insert in the ch sp before and after the previous row’s dc2tog), *ch 1 and skip a st, dc into the next ch sp* repeat until you have two ch sps left, dc2tog, slst into the turning chain (11 ch sps 19 ch sps)
Row 4: repeat row 3 (9 ch sps, 13 ch sps)
SIZE SMALl/MEDIUM **(SIZE L/XL skip down to SIZE LARGE/X-LARGE)**
Row 5: ch 3, dc in the next ch sp (the ch sp before the last row’s dc2tog), *ch1, dc in the next ch sp* repeat to the end, sl st into the beginning ch (9 ch sps)
SIZE LARGE/X-LARGE
Row 5: repeat row 3 (11 ch sps)
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Cuffs
With your 5.5mm hook, hold two strands of your Coboo yarn together and attach it into a chain space at the bottom of the armhole opening (where it will be least visible when worn).
Row 1:ch 3 (counts as a dc), 3 dc in the same ch sp where you attached your yarn, *4 dc in the next ch sp* repeat to the end, sl st into the top of the ch 3 from the beginning of the row (36, 44)
Row 2:ch 3 (counts as a dc), *dc into the 3rd loop of the dc from the previous row* repeat to the end, sl st into the top of the ch 3 from the beginning of the row (36, 44)
Row 3: ch 1, rsc across
Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Do the same to the other armhole.
Collar
With your 5.5mm hook, hold two strands of your Coboo yarn together and attach it into a chain space somewhere on the bottom of your cocoon.
Row 1: ch3, 3dc in the same ch sp you attached your ch 3, *4 dc in the next ch sp* repeat to the end, slst to the top of the ch 3 from the beginning on the row (288, 304)
Row 2: ch3, *dc in the 3rd loop of each dc from the previous row* repeat to the end, slst into the top of ch 3 from the beginning of the row (288, 304)
Row 3-10: repeat row 2
Row 11: ch 1, rsc to the end, slst into the ch 1 from the beginning of the row (288, 304)
Fasten off and weave in all your loose ends. Give it a good roll with the lint roller.
Hope that you were able to complete your own Fauxy Cocoon cause it is a definite must-have. As always, I would love to hear from you! Keep in touch via social media!
Happy crocheting!
Are you excited for this Honey Cocoon pattern as much as I am excited to share it with all of you?
I absolutely love anything that adds layers to my outfit. I hope that you do too because there will be a lot of patterns from Modesty by Laura in the future that will help add dimension to your everyday look.
This cocoon pattern is literally made from a simple rectangle. So if you're new to crocheting, this is just for you. The rectangle you crochet will be seamed up the sides to create armholes and then a border will be crocheted along the edges to give the piece a clean look.
The yarn used for this project was Lion Brand's Heartland and I have to tell you, it is now my favorite yarn. I worked with quite a few yarns but I have to say that I am in love with this one. If you haven't worked with Heartland before, go out and buy some. It will not disappoint you. It's soft and has a nice weight. The drape is beautiful on this cocoon.
The stitch used for the majority of this pattern is the lemon peel stitch. It is a series of single and double crochets alternating. Super easy and very beginner friendly.
For a nice finish, the reverse single crochet is used. It is a very unique stitch and I love the way it looks. You can trust me when I say that I'll probably use it a lot in my designs.
Measurements
The body of the cocoon measures roughly around 40“ x 35” for S/M and 43”x 38” for the L/XL.The pattern is written for S/M and L/XL written in the ( ).
Materials
5 (6) skeins of Lion Brand Heartland in Bryce Canyon (mustard) or in Kings Canyon (green)6.5mm hook
Tapestry Needle
Pattern
For an inexpensive ad-free hardcopy of this pattern, visit Etsy or Ravelry.To save this pattern on Pinterest for later, visit Pinterest.
Tag me on Facebook or Instagram with your completed Honey Cocoons! Would love to see your finished work!
Happy crocheting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Belle Poncho is a poncho inspired by Disney's character Belle from Beauty and the Beast. She holds a special place in my heart mainly because Belle was a character that I could relate to in my youth.
I was and still am a lover of books. You could almost always find me in a library or a bookstore growing up. In college, I practically lived at the library because there was a part of the building that remained open 24 hours a day. Though I don't do as much reading as I would like, I still continue to collect them and love the smell of old books.
When I think of this book-loving character, I also remember the scene of Belle in the snow with the Beast in her red poncho. Perfect color for Christmas and Valentine. I hope you enjoy this classic design.
Materials
-Any worsted weight yarn (5 skeins Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn in Claret is what I used.)
-1 skein of Lion Brand Go For Faux in Baked Alaska
-8.0mm hook for the body
-7.0mm hook for the collar
-Tapestry Needle
*Optional 2- 30mm buttons
Gauge
every 9 sts and 6 rows = 4”
Abbreviations
ch– chain
st– stitch
yo– yarn over
dc– double crochet
dc2tog– double crochet 2 together
sp– space
sps– spaces
slst– slip stitch
*– repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk
( ) – the # of stitches at the end of the round
*Notes
The chain 1 in the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch throughout.
Please be advised that you must crochet loose in order to achieve the flowy nature of this poncho. If you are unable to achieve the gauge I suggest using a bigger hook size.
Pattern
Body
With your 8mm hook, ch 66. Without twisting, slst into the first ch.
Row 1: ch 1, dc in the st where you slst, dc across, slst into the first dc of the row (66)
Row 2: ch 1, dc in the same st where you slst, dc in the next 9 sts, 2dc in the next st, *dc in the next 10sts, 2dc* repeat to the end, slst into the first dc (72)
Row 3: repeat row 1 (72)
Row 4: ch 1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st *dc in the next 2 sts, 2dc in the next* repeat to the end, slst in the first dc (96)
Row 5: ch 1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 2 sts, 2dc in the next st *dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next*, 2dc in the last st and slst in the first dc (120)
Row 6: repeat row 1 (120)
Row 7: ch 1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 3 sts, 2dc in the next st *dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in the next*, slst in the first dc (144)
Row 8: repeat row 1 (144)
Row 9: ch 1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 4 sts, 2dc in the next st *dc in the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next* slst in the first dc (168)
Row 10-19: repeat row 1 (168)
Row 20: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19 sts, 2 dc in the next 2 sts,* dc in the next 40 sts, 2dc in the next 2 sts* (repeat this for a total of 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (176)
Row 21: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 2 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (184)
Row 22: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 4 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 4 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (192)
Row 23: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 6 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 6 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (200)
Row 24: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 8 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 8 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (208)
Row 25: ch 1, dc in the st where you slst, dc across, slst into the first dc of the row (208)
Row 26-28: repeat row 25
Row 29: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 10 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 10 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (216)
Row 31-33: repeat row 25
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Faux Fur Collar
Using your 7mm hook, attach your yarn to the neck opening.
Row 1: ch 2, sk the first sp, dc in between the next 3sts, dc2tog, *dc in the next 4, dc2tog* repeat to the end, slst to the top of the beginning ch 2 (55)
Row 3: ch2, sk the first sp, dc in between the next 3sts,
dc2tog, *dc in the next 4, dc2tog* repeat until you have 3 sps left, dc in the last 3 sps, slst to the top of the beginning ch 2 (38)
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
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