The Middleton Purse is a basic and classy purse that will be sure to impress all your friends. The purse is just big enough for wallet and a makeup pouch. Great date night or out on the town bag. If you haven't crochet a bag before, this is a great purse to make.
Summer time is a tough season to design in my opinion. With the heat, it doesn't seem like a lot of people are interested in touching yarn. I can attest to it as I have lost my "crojo". So I decided to create the Middleton Collection. The collection includes this Middleton Purse, Middleton Tote, and Convertible Bow Bag. There is one more that is a part of this collection which has not debuted and will probably be introduced Summer 2020.
Materials
-2 (or 3; refer to the notes for explanation) skeins of Bernat Maker Home Dec in Steel Blue
-8.0 mm hook
-a chain strap (I used this https://amzn.to/2KD5Ac3.)
-a lock of your choice (I used this https://amzn.to/2VNJQLY.)
-a 1.0 inch gold plated D-ring
-stitch markers
-large tapestry needle
-scale to measure out yarn
Abbreviations
ch- chain
sc- single crochet
sc2tog-single crochet 2 together
st- stitch
sts-stitches
*- repeat from first asterisk to the
second asterisk
( ) -the number of stitches in that row
Gauge
Every 10 sts and 10 rows is 4”.
Measurements
(Rough estimates)
2.25” in width
6” in height
10” in length
Notes
- Beginning ch counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
-This pattern requires using three strands together. I bought 2 skeins and rolled three 5.8 oz balls from those 2 skeins with plenty of yarn left over. If you would liketo avoid rolling out balls, you can choose to buy 3 skeins of yarn.
-If you wish to use a difference chain handle, for reference, the one in this pattern is 39” long.
Pattern
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
Back Panel and Flap
Chain 26
Row 1: sc into the 4th ch from your hook, *ch1 and skip a st, sc to the next* repeat to the end, turn your work (24)
Row 2-16: ch 2, sc in the first ch sp, *ch1 and skip a st, sc in the next st* repeat to the end with the last sc in the turning ch, turn your work
Row 17: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc2tog (next st and ch sp), sc in every st and ch sp across until you have 1 st and the turning ch, sc2tog (next st and turning ch), turn your work (22)
Row 18-27: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st),
sc across, turn your work
Row 28: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc2tog, sc across until you have 2 st left, sc2tog, turn your work (20)
Row 29:ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc across, turn your work
Row 30-31:repeat rows 28 and 29 (18)
Row 32:Repeat row 28 (16)
Chain 1, single crochet all the way around the entire piece. (3 sc in each corner.)
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Front Panel
Chain 26
Row 1: sc into the 4th ch from your hook, *ch1 and skip a st, sc to the next* repeat to the end, turn your work (24)
Row 2-15:ch 2, sc in the first ch sp, *ch1 and skip a st, sc in the next st* repeat to the end with the last sc in the turning ch, turn your work
Chain 1 and single crochet around the entire piece. (3 sc in each corner.)
Side and Bottom Panel
Chain 4
Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from your hook, sc to the end, turn your work (3)
Row 2-53: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st) sc across, turn your work (3)
Ch 1, sc along the length of the panel til you reach the first corner, 1 sc in the corner, sc in the same corner but with the d ring (refer to the pictures), sc across the width with the D-ring til you reach the next corner, sc in the corner again without the D ring, sc along the length of the panel til you reach the next corner and repeat the exact same steps that you did for the other side.
Assembly
Take your front panel, the side/bottom panel and some stitch markers to align the sides of the front panel to the side/bottom panel. Place a stitch marker through both at each corner of the front side of the bag.
Take your tapestry needle and one strand of yarn and mattress stitch through the sides of the bag. The stitch markers will help you stay on track with your sewing. Take your back and flap panel and mark the four corners of the back of the bag with the rest of the bag.
Mattress stitch from the first stitch marker and around to the last stitch marker. Attach your choice of lock and your choice of bag handle.
I hope that you find the Middleton Purse crochet pattern a fun one to do. Stay connected with me on social media. See you there!
Happy crocheting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
I hope that you find the Middleton Purse crochet pattern a fun one to do. Stay connected with me on social media. See you there!
Happy crocheting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Norma Jean Sweater is a very relaxed boyfriend style pullover which is great for any casual outing. This crocheted sweater utilizes the blueberry stitch. It was the first time I ever used it and it was quite fun. There's a lot of movement involved and crocheting this stitch didn't bore me like how some stitches do. The Norma Jean Sweater calls for Lion Brand's Jeans and I have to say that I really love this yarn. It is so soft and when it's crocheted, it is heavenly to wear.
If you have been following me from the start of my crochet/knit designing journey, then you probably know that this one took me ages to design. There was a lot of frogging involved in the designing process. I started off with the granite stitch but it was not working out for me. After the 3rd time frogging, I called it quits and moved onto the blueberry stitch. I'm happy with how this sweater turned out despite all the struggles I had with designing it. Doesn't it look great?
I hope that the Norma Jean Sweater will be a pattern that you end up crocheting, enjoying and wearing.
Pattern
To purchase the inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern, visit Etsy or Ravelry.
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
5 (5) Lion Brand Jeans in Stone Wash
3 (3) Lion Brand Jeans in Faded
5.0 and 5.5mm hook
stitch markers
tape measure
Measurements
Measurements are rough estimates as they can vary depending on how you lay your work (try not to stretch your piece into position as this can give you a false reading). As long as you are within a half-inch from the suggested measurements, you should be okay.
S/M : 28” length, 26” width, 15” widest part of the arm
L/XL : 30” length, 28” wide, 16.5” widest part of the armGauge
Every 16 stitches and 12 rows = 4 inchesNotes
-Please check your gauge. I recommend doing a swatch before beginning. Adjust your tension or hook size to achieve the gauge.
-If you are finding your panels turning out smaller than anticipated, simply crochet more rows.
-Sizing available in S/M and L/XL. The pattern is written as follows with L/XL in parentheses: S/M (L/XL).
-Beginning chain counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
-Front and back panels are worked from the bottom up.
-Sleeves are worked from cuff to the widest part of your arm.
-If you’d like to customize your size, start your FDC in multiples of 6 + 3.
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
Perfect for Easter and spring, this simple and quick bunny Amigurumi can be an accessory to your keys, purses, and book bags. Who can resist a cute bunny?
Mild tempered, timid, fluffy and cuddly bunnies would be a dream pet. But in household like mine, the poor bunnies would probably end up with strokes from being chased by little terrors; A.K.A my children.
Amigurumi is definitely something I struggle with as a designer. Not because I find it difficult to design, but because I absolutely hate tapestry work and working with tiny stitches. When I talk with Amigurumi designers, they tell me stories of crochet hooks breaking. I was shocked that it is fairly a common thing that happens to Amigurumists. So kudos to all of you makers who mainly make Amigurumi. You have my respect.
Pattern
For the ad-free and inexpensive PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry.
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
-any worsted weight yarn (lavender and pink, Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn was used in the picture)
-one pair of 9mm or 10 mm safety eyes
-stitch marker
-polyfil stuffing
-keychain of your choice
-3.5 mm or 4.0mm hook
-tapestry needle
Abbreviations
sc- single crochet
invdec- invisible decrease
st- stitch
sts-stitches
* Repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk
MC- magic circle
( )- the number of stitches at the end of the round
Notes
-Everything is worked in continuous rounds.
-Make stitches tight as to not let the stuffing come through the stitches.
-Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
-Make stitches tight as to not let the stuffing come through the stitches.
-Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
Ears (Make 2)
Round 1: with your lavender yarn create a MC and make 4 sc in the circle
Round 2: *2sc in next st, 1sc in next st* (6)
At this time, pull the end to close the MC.
Round 3-5: sc around
Stuff the ear with polyfil stuffing
Round 6: invdec, sc to the end of the round (5)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing
Head
Round 1: Create a MC and crochet 6 sc in the MC
Round 2: 2sc into each st (12)
Round 3: *1sc, 2sc * repeat (18)
Round 4: *1sc in the next 2 sts, 2sc in the next* (24)
Round 5-7: sc around
Round 8: *sc in next two sts, invdec* (18)
Round 9: sc around
Sew in both ears.
Place safety eyes between rows 6 and 7 about 3-4 stitches apart.
Using contrasting yarn, make an x a row below and between the eyes for the nose.
I like to attach my keychain at this time as well.
Stuff the head with poly-fil
Round 11: invdec to the end (6)
Fasten off and leave a tail to close the head and weave in the end. Firmly stuff the head and close the opening by weaving in and out of the stitches. Weave in the remaining.
I hope you have enjoyed quick and easy bunny pattern. As always, leave your thoughts and comments down below. I would love to hear from you.
Happy crocheting!
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
I hope you have enjoyed quick and easy bunny pattern. As always, leave your thoughts and comments down below. I would love to hear from you.
Happy crocheting!
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Horizon Wrap has soft notes of pink and purple. It can really bring such a feminine touch to your look. This rectangle wrap can also act as a scarf for the winter months!
I personally don't wear shawls or wraps too much but I do love scarves. When I browse through Instagram, I really admire all that you can do with a shawl in the design aspect. There are some really beautiful shawl designs out there and those posts inspired me to give wrap designing a shot.
The Horizon Wrap is my very first shawl design but I look forward to growing as a designer to make some intricate and beautiful ones in the near future.
Pattern
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
4 skeins of Red Heart Unforgettable in Pearly
6.5mm hook
tapestry needleGauge
Half Double Crochet section 3.25 sts and 2.5 rows = 1”
Textured section (spatter pattern stitch) 2 rows = 1”
Measurements
69”long and 18” wide
Notes
-The length is created first with the foundationless half double crochet and the width is crocheted with each row.
-When you crochet the texturized section, try to keep your tension loose. It’s easy to tighten up with the chains that are crocheted in this section, which can result your piece to shrink in length as you crochet more and more rows.
-If you are unfamiliar with the foundationless half double crochet and would rather begin with a foundation chain, chain 226 and half double crochet in the 3rd chain from the hook and continue with half double crochet to the end.
-To alter the length of your wrap, chain multiples of 4 + 2 or FHDC multiples of 4 +1.
Pattern
FHDC 225
Row 1: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 2-5: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 6: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)
Row 7: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)
Row 8-11: repeat row 6 and 7 (225)
Row 12-16: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 17: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)
Row 18: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)
Row 19-22: repeat row 18 and 19 (225)
Row 23-27: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 28: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)
Row 29: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)
Row 30-33: repeat rows 28 and 29 (225)
Row 34-38: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Hope you enjoyed this pattern and happy crocheting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Buzy Bee Keychain is a quick and easy pattern. Bring a cute little bumble bee along for the ride without getting a sting in the butt because you accidentally sat on it.
Honestly, I am not a huge bee fan at all. Sure I love their honey and sure I'm aware of their importance. BUUUUUUUUT, I've gotten stung enough times that I legit have a reason to not to like them.
But hey! Now I can say I like them as long as they're squishy and made out of yarn. I hope that you love this itty bitty busy bumble bee pattern!
Honestly, I am not a huge bee fan at all. Sure I love their honey and sure I'm aware of their importance. BUUUUUUUUT, I've gotten stung enough times that I legit have a reason to not to like them.
But hey! Now I can say I like them as long as they're squishy and made out of yarn. I hope that you love this itty bitty busy bumble bee pattern!
Pattern
For the ad-free and inexpensive PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry. The PDF version comes with additional step-by-step pictures.
To pin this pattern for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
-any worsted weight yarn (yellow, black, and white, Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn was used in the picture)
-one pair of 9mm or 10 mm safety eyes
-poly-fil stuffing
-a keychain of your choice
-3.5 mm or 4.0mm hook
-tapestry needle
Abbreviations
sc- single crochet
inc- single crochet increase (2 single crochets in 1 stitch)
invdec- invisible decrease
slst- slip stitch
ch- chain
mc- magic circle
* - repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk
( )- the number of stitches at the end of the round
Notes
Make stitches tight as to not let the stuffing come through the stitches.
Chain 1 in the beginning of each round doesn’t count as a stitch.
Be careful not to slip stitch into the previous round’s slip stitch or to single crochet into it.
Wings (Make 2)
Ch6
Row 1: dc into the 3rdch from the hook, hdc into the next ch, sc in the next 2 sts.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Body
Round 1: With yellow yarn, create a MR and crochet 6 sc into the ring
Round 2: *sc, 2sc in the next* repeat 3 times, sl st into the next st (9)
Round 3: ch1, sc in the same st as your slst, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, *sc in the next 2 sts, 2sc in the next* repeat 2 times, sl st into the next st (12)
Round 4: ch1, sc in the same st as your slst, sc in the next 2 sts , 2 sc in the next st, *sc in the next 3 sts, 2sc in the next* repeat 2 times, sl st into the next st (15)
Round 5: ch1, sc in the same st as your slst, sc around into the next 14 sts, sl st into the next st (switch to black yarn when pulling up a loop for your slip stitch) (15)
Insert your hook into the next stitch to slip stitch.
Yarn over with the black and pull through all loops on your hook. Leave your yellow yarn because you will pick it back up later.
Round 6: ch 1, sc in the same spot as where you slst into, sc around in the next 14 sts, slst in the next st (15)
Round 7: ch 1, sc in the same spot as where you slst into, sc around in the next 14 sts, slst in the next st (switch to yellow yarn when pulling up a loop for your slip stitch) (15)
Put your safety eyes in now and get some black yarn to sew in your smile. Place your eyes between rows 3 and 4 and 3-4 sts apart. Hold your Amigurumi so that the slip stitched are facing downward and the least visible.
Round 8: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, sc around in the next 14 sts, sl st in the next st (15)
Round 9: ch1, sc in to the st where you last sl st into, sc around in the next 14 sts, sl st in the next st (15)
Sew in your wings, half of the wing over a row of black and the other half over a row of yellow. Refer to picture.
Row 10: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, sc in the next 2 sts, invdec in the next st *sc in the next 3 sts, invdec* repeat 2 times, sl st in the next st (12)
Row 11: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, sc in the next st, invdec in the next st *sc in the next 2 sts, invdec* repeat 2 times, sl st in the next st (9)
Stuff your bee with poly-fil.
Row 12: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, invdec *sc in the next sts, invdec* repeat 2 times, sl st in the next st (6)
Fasten off, stuff the rest of your bee firmly and close your bee’s rear end. Weave in any loose ends.
I hope that this pattern was a fun one for you and that your buzy bee gets to accompany you on many sweet trips.
Happy crocheting!
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
Happy crocheting!
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
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