Showing posts with label wearable. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wearable. Show all posts
This child size pixie style beanie is super fast to knit up and a great addition to your child’s fall and winter attire.
You may be surprised to find out that knitting was actually the first craft I learned between crochet and knit. While I've only known how to crochet for 2+ years, I've known how to knit for about 15 years.
The Autumn Beanie is my first ever knit hat design and the second hat I ever knitted in my life. Crazy, right? The reason behind this is because I look horrible in hats. It is very rare that I find a hat that compliments my face shape. Let's just say it's not one of my favorite accessories. However, my kids look super cute in them and with the cold winter ahead of us, I decided to design a hat that my kids would love.
This pixie hat would also look super cute in either red or green for a Christmas elf hat, don't you think?
The hat is a very basic and simple hat design; perfect for beginning knitters!
The Autumn Beanie is my first ever knit hat design and the second hat I ever knitted in my life. Crazy, right? The reason behind this is because I look horrible in hats. It is very rare that I find a hat that compliments my face shape. Let's just say it's not one of my favorite accessories. However, my kids look super cute in them and with the cold winter ahead of us, I decided to design a hat that my kids would love.
My sassy daughter, Sophia. LOL.
This pixie hat would also look super cute in either red or green for a Christmas elf hat, don't you think?
The hat is a very basic and simple hat design; perfect for beginning knitters!
Pattern
For an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern, please visit Etsy or Ravelry.To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
-9.0mm double pointed knitting needles (or circular needles)
-Lion Brand Hometown Tweed in Canyon
-tapestry needle
-stitch marker
Gauge
5.75 sts and 7.5 rows equals 2”.
Stitches Used in This Pattern
Stockinette Stitch
Measurements
The circumference of this hat is 16” un-stretched.
Notes
This hat is worked in continuous rounds.
You can begin with circular needles and move onto DPN when it gets harder to work with the circular needles.
My son, Caleb, makes a great model. Doesn't he?
I hope that you enjoy my first knit beanie design. I have more ready to debut so keep a look out!
Happy knitting!
XO,
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Fauxy Cocoon is by far my most worn crocheted item that I personally designed. The shrug is made with Lion Brand's Go For Faux and Coboo. Not only are these two yarns soft, it really brings the heat. If you are someone who easily gets cold, please don't hesitate with this one. You will want to hibernate in it all winter long.
When Lion Brand released the Go For Faux yarn, I couldn't resist ordering a dozen skeins of it and I am so glad that I did. I couldn't stop petting the skeins when my box arrived and then it dawned on me that I had no idea what to do them. Then I wondered how this yarn would feel like if I had it wrapped around my body. I'm so happy that I ended up designing this cocoon because it saved me from a very cold winter last year.
Pattern
For the ad-free and inexpensive PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry. The PDF version comes with additional step-by-step pictures for the collar and cuffs.
Materials
-10.0mm hook
-5.5 mm hook
-tapestry needle
-lint roller
Gauge
Body: every 7 stitches and 4 rows = 4"
Ribbing: every 6 stitches and 7 rows = 2"
Measurements
The body (essentially a rectangle) in S/M is roughly around 33“ x 36” and for L/XL 35”x 38”.
For S/M, the width of your rectangle should measure 33" across and for L/X 35" across. Adjust your tension or switch to a different hook size if needed.
Small/Medium: Wrist to Wrist 50 “, Length from top to bottom 38”
Large/X-Large: Wrist-to-Wrist 52”, Length from top to bottom 40”
Keep in mind that when worn, it has the ability to stretch.
Abbreviations
ch- chain
slst- slip stitch
st(s)- stitch(es)
sp(s)- spaces
sc- single crochet
dc- double
dc2tog-double crochet 2 together
rSC- reverse single crochet
Notes
Please check your gauge. I recommend doing a swatch before beginning. Adjust your tension or hook size to achieve the gauge.
If you would like to make your cocoon smaller or larger, simply chain an odd number plus 4 for your starting chain or simply crochet more rows.
If you are finding your rectangle turning out smaller than anticipated, simply crochet more rows.
Beginning chain counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
Pattern
Chain 59 (63)
Row 1: dc into the 5th ch from the hook (counts as a dc and a st), *ch 1 and skip a st, dc in the next st* repeat to the end, ch 3, turn your work (57 (28 ch sps and 29 dc), 61 (30 ch sps and 31 dc))
Row 2: ch3, *dc into the next ch sp, ch 1 and skip a st* repeat to the end, dc in the last ch sp, turn your work (57, 61)
Row 3-36 (38) : Repeat row 2
Lay your finished piece on the floor with the foundation chain on the left and the last row on the right.
Fold your piece in half by pulling the top down to the bottom.
With your tapestry needle and some Coboo yarn, sew up the sides stopping at the double crochets after the 7th chain space. (Make sure that all double crochets and chain spaces are aligned to their respective counterparts.)
I used the mattress stitch to seam up the sides of the body.
You should have 14 (16) chain spaces that are not seamed. We will continue working into these chain spaces to create a sleeve.
We will work in one direction for the remainder of the sleeve.
With your 10.0mm hook, attach the faux fur yarn to the last double crochet where you seamed.
Sleeves
Row 1: ch3 (counts as a st and ch 1 and for the remainder of the sleeve), dc into the first ch1 sp, *ch 1 and skip a st, dc into the next ch sp* repeat to the end, ch1 slst into the first ch sp of the row (15 ch sps, 17 ch sps)
Row 2: ch3, dc2tog in the next two ch sps , *ch 1 and skip a st, dc into the next ch sp* repeat until you have two ch sps left, ch1, dc2tog in the last two ch sps, slst into the turning chain (13 ch sps, 15 ch sps)
*Note*
Row 3: ch3, dc2tog (insert in the ch sp before and after the previous row’s dc2tog), *ch 1 and skip a st, dc into the next ch sp* repeat until you have two ch sps left, dc2tog, slst into the turning chain (11 ch sps 19 ch sps)
Row 4: repeat row 3 (9 ch sps, 13 ch sps)
SIZE SMALl/MEDIUM **(SIZE L/XL skip down to SIZE LARGE/X-LARGE)**
Row 5: ch 3, dc in the next ch sp (the ch sp before the last row’s dc2tog), *ch1, dc in the next ch sp* repeat to the end, sl st into the beginning ch (9 ch sps)
SIZE LARGE/X-LARGE
Row 5: repeat row 3 (11 ch sps)
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Cuffs
With your 5.5mm hook, hold two strands of your Coboo yarn together and attach it into a chain space at the bottom of the armhole opening (where it will be least visible when worn).
Row 1:ch 3 (counts as a dc), 3 dc in the same ch sp where you attached your yarn, *4 dc in the next ch sp* repeat to the end, sl st into the top of the ch 3 from the beginning of the row (36, 44)
Row 2:ch 3 (counts as a dc), *dc into the 3rd loop of the dc from the previous row* repeat to the end, sl st into the top of the ch 3 from the beginning of the row (36, 44)
Row 3: ch 1, rsc across
Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Do the same to the other armhole.
Collar
With your 5.5mm hook, hold two strands of your Coboo yarn together and attach it into a chain space somewhere on the bottom of your cocoon.
Row 1: ch3, 3dc in the same ch sp you attached your ch 3, *4 dc in the next ch sp* repeat to the end, slst to the top of the ch 3 from the beginning on the row (288, 304)
Row 2: ch3, *dc in the 3rd loop of each dc from the previous row* repeat to the end, slst into the top of ch 3 from the beginning of the row (288, 304)
Row 3-10: repeat row 2
Row 11: ch 1, rsc to the end, slst into the ch 1 from the beginning of the row (288, 304)
Fasten off and weave in all your loose ends. Give it a good roll with the lint roller.
Hope that you were able to complete your own Fauxy Cocoon cause it is a definite must-have. As always, I would love to hear from you! Keep in touch via social media!
Happy crocheting!
Are you excited for this Honey Cocoon pattern as much as I am excited to share it with all of you?
I absolutely love anything that adds layers to my outfit. I hope that you do too because there will be a lot of patterns from Modesty by Laura in the future that will help add dimension to your everyday look.
This cocoon pattern is literally made from a simple rectangle. So if you're new to crocheting, this is just for you. The rectangle you crochet will be seamed up the sides to create armholes and then a border will be crocheted along the edges to give the piece a clean look.
The yarn used for this project was Lion Brand's Heartland and I have to tell you, it is now my favorite yarn. I worked with quite a few yarns but I have to say that I am in love with this one. If you haven't worked with Heartland before, go out and buy some. It will not disappoint you. It's soft and has a nice weight. The drape is beautiful on this cocoon.
The stitch used for the majority of this pattern is the lemon peel stitch. It is a series of single and double crochets alternating. Super easy and very beginner friendly.
For a nice finish, the reverse single crochet is used. It is a very unique stitch and I love the way it looks. You can trust me when I say that I'll probably use it a lot in my designs.
Measurements
The body of the cocoon measures roughly around 40“ x 35” for S/M and 43”x 38” for the L/XL.The pattern is written for S/M and L/XL written in the ( ).
Materials
5 (6) skeins of Lion Brand Heartland in Bryce Canyon (mustard) or in Kings Canyon (green)6.5mm hook
Tapestry Needle
Pattern
For an inexpensive ad-free hardcopy of this pattern, visit Etsy or Ravelry.To save this pattern on Pinterest for later, visit Pinterest.
Tag me on Facebook or Instagram with your completed Honey Cocoons! Would love to see your finished work!
Happy crocheting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
I had no idea how worldwide K-pop (Korean pop) and K-drama were nowadays. I really didn’t see it coming. Growing up, watching k-drama was only possible by renting them out on VHS from a local Korean store. Now, it’s on Netflix, Amazon, Viki, and so on and so on. Who would have thought? I certainly didn’t.
This past summer I went to my first k-pop concert with my aunt and mom. I really wanted to see Eric Nam, also a Korean-American, who made it in the music industry in Korea. I was expecting Korean people to show up at this concert only to find myself being the minority of the bunch. It was amazing. I felt proud to be a Korean and grateful that other ethnicities were there to support a Korean singer.
If you follow these K-pop and K-drama celebrities, you must know about these black masks they wear all the time, right? To be honest, wearing a mask in Korea is not really out of the norm. When I lived in Korea for three and a half years, there were plenty of occasions where I wore them. I wore them mostly when I was sick and didn’t want to spread my germs, but also when I had to walk out and didn’t want to show my bare face. And you know what? That’s exactly why k-pop stars wear them. Oh, and of course trying not to get spotted out in public. But really, how can you not get spotted? You’re a celebrity.
Anyways, I thought that this would be a great quick project to do especially with the flu season in and the winter months upon us.
If you happen to read this in the spring to fall months, this would also make a great mask to avoid breathing in pollen during the allergy season.
UPDATE: THIS WILL NOT PROTECT YOU FROM THE CORONA VIRUS!
Pattern
To get a copy of the K-Pop Mask you can visit my Etsy or Ravelry stores.To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
Measurements of the Mask
4.5" in height and 9" wideMaterials
-1 Skein of Lion Brands Vanna’s Choice in Black and in Linen-4.5mm hook
-scissors
-tapestry needle
Optional Bear Motif
Comment below and don't forget to follow me on my social media accounts.
Happy crocheting!
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the link on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Belle Poncho is a poncho inspired by Disney's character Belle from Beauty and the Beast. She holds a special place in my heart mainly because Belle was a character that I could relate to in my youth.
I was and still am a lover of books. You could almost always find me in a library or a bookstore growing up. In college, I practically lived at the library because there was a part of the building that remained open 24 hours a day. Though I don't do as much reading as I would like, I still continue to collect them and love the smell of old books.
When I think of this book-loving character, I also remember the scene of Belle in the snow with the Beast in her red poncho. Perfect color for Christmas and Valentine. I hope you enjoy this classic design.
Materials
-Any worsted weight yarn (5 skeins Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn in Claret is what I used.)
-1 skein of Lion Brand Go For Faux in Baked Alaska
-8.0mm hook for the body
-7.0mm hook for the collar
-Tapestry Needle
*Optional 2- 30mm buttons
Gauge
every 9 sts and 6 rows = 4”
Abbreviations
ch– chain
st– stitch
yo– yarn over
dc– double crochet
dc2tog– double crochet 2 together
sp– space
sps– spaces
slst– slip stitch
*– repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk
( ) – the # of stitches at the end of the round
*Notes
The chain 1 in the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch throughout.
Please be advised that you must crochet loose in order to achieve the flowy nature of this poncho. If you are unable to achieve the gauge I suggest using a bigger hook size.
Pattern
Body
With your 8mm hook, ch 66. Without twisting, slst into the first ch.
Row 1: ch 1, dc in the st where you slst, dc across, slst into the first dc of the row (66)
Row 2: ch 1, dc in the same st where you slst, dc in the next 9 sts, 2dc in the next st, *dc in the next 10sts, 2dc* repeat to the end, slst into the first dc (72)
Row 3: repeat row 1 (72)
Row 4: ch 1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st *dc in the next 2 sts, 2dc in the next* repeat to the end, slst in the first dc (96)
Row 5: ch 1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 2 sts, 2dc in the next st *dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next*, 2dc in the last st and slst in the first dc (120)
Row 6: repeat row 1 (120)
Row 7: ch 1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 3 sts, 2dc in the next st *dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in the next*, slst in the first dc (144)
Row 8: repeat row 1 (144)
Row 9: ch 1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 4 sts, 2dc in the next st *dc in the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next* slst in the first dc (168)
Row 10-19: repeat row 1 (168)
Row 20: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19 sts, 2 dc in the next 2 sts,* dc in the next 40 sts, 2dc in the next 2 sts* (repeat this for a total of 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (176)
Row 21: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 2 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (184)
Row 22: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 4 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 4 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (192)
Row 23: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 6 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 6 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (200)
Row 24: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 8 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 8 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (208)
Row 25: ch 1, dc in the st where you slst, dc across, slst into the first dc of the row (208)
Row 26-28: repeat row 25
Row 29: ch1, dc in same st where you slst, dc in the next 19, 2dc in the next, dc in the next 10 sts, 2dc in the next st, * dc in the next 40, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 10 sts, 2dc in the next* (repeat this 3 times), dc in the last 20 sts, slst in the first dc (216)
Row 31-33: repeat row 25
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Faux Fur Collar
Using your 7mm hook, attach your yarn to the neck opening.
Row 1: ch 2, sk the first sp, dc in between the next 3sts, dc2tog, *dc in the next 4, dc2tog* repeat to the end, slst to the top of the beginning ch 2 (55)
Row 3: ch2, sk the first sp, dc in between the next 3sts,
dc2tog, *dc in the next 4, dc2tog* repeat until you have 3 sps left, dc in the last 3 sps, slst to the top of the beginning ch 2 (38)
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
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