Perfect for Easter and spring, this simple and quick bunny Amigurumi can be an accessory to your keys, purses, and book bags. Who can resist a cute bunny?
Mild tempered, timid, fluffy and cuddly bunnies would be a dream pet. But in household like mine, the poor bunnies would probably end up with strokes from being chased by little terrors; A.K.A my children.
Amigurumi is definitely something I struggle with as a designer. Not because I find it difficult to design, but because I absolutely hate tapestry work and working with tiny stitches. When I talk with Amigurumi designers, they tell me stories of crochet hooks breaking. I was shocked that it is fairly a common thing that happens to Amigurumists. So kudos to all of you makers who mainly make Amigurumi. You have my respect.
Pattern
For the ad-free and inexpensive PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry.
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
-any worsted weight yarn (lavender and pink, Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn was used in the picture)
-one pair of 9mm or 10 mm safety eyes
-stitch marker
-polyfil stuffing
-keychain of your choice
-3.5 mm or 4.0mm hook
-tapestry needle
Abbreviations
sc- single crochet
invdec- invisible decrease
st- stitch
sts-stitches
* Repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk
MC- magic circle
( )- the number of stitches at the end of the round
Notes
-Everything is worked in continuous rounds.
-Make stitches tight as to not let the stuffing come through the stitches.
-Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
-Make stitches tight as to not let the stuffing come through the stitches.
-Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
Ears (Make 2)
Round 1: with your lavender yarn create a MC and make 4 sc in the circle
Round 2: *2sc in next st, 1sc in next st* (6)
At this time, pull the end to close the MC.
Round 3-5: sc around
Stuff the ear with polyfil stuffing
Round 6: invdec, sc to the end of the round (5)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing
Head
Round 1: Create a MC and crochet 6 sc in the MC
Round 2: 2sc into each st (12)
Round 3: *1sc, 2sc * repeat (18)
Round 4: *1sc in the next 2 sts, 2sc in the next* (24)
Round 5-7: sc around
Round 8: *sc in next two sts, invdec* (18)
Round 9: sc around
Sew in both ears.
Place safety eyes between rows 6 and 7 about 3-4 stitches apart.
Using contrasting yarn, make an x a row below and between the eyes for the nose.
I like to attach my keychain at this time as well.
Stuff the head with poly-fil
Round 11: invdec to the end (6)
Fasten off and leave a tail to close the head and weave in the end. Firmly stuff the head and close the opening by weaving in and out of the stitches. Weave in the remaining.
I hope you have enjoyed quick and easy bunny pattern. As always, leave your thoughts and comments down below. I would love to hear from you.
Happy crocheting!
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
I hope you have enjoyed quick and easy bunny pattern. As always, leave your thoughts and comments down below. I would love to hear from you.
Happy crocheting!
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Horizon Wrap has soft notes of pink and purple. It can really bring such a feminine touch to your look. This rectangle wrap can also act as a scarf for the winter months!
I personally don't wear shawls or wraps too much but I do love scarves. When I browse through Instagram, I really admire all that you can do with a shawl in the design aspect. There are some really beautiful shawl designs out there and those posts inspired me to give wrap designing a shot.
The Horizon Wrap is my very first shawl design but I look forward to growing as a designer to make some intricate and beautiful ones in the near future.
Pattern
To pin this for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
4 skeins of Red Heart Unforgettable in Pearly
6.5mm hook
tapestry needleGauge
Half Double Crochet section 3.25 sts and 2.5 rows = 1”
Textured section (spatter pattern stitch) 2 rows = 1”
Measurements
69”long and 18” wide
Notes
-The length is created first with the foundationless half double crochet and the width is crocheted with each row.
-When you crochet the texturized section, try to keep your tension loose. It’s easy to tighten up with the chains that are crocheted in this section, which can result your piece to shrink in length as you crochet more and more rows.
-If you are unfamiliar with the foundationless half double crochet and would rather begin with a foundation chain, chain 226 and half double crochet in the 3rd chain from the hook and continue with half double crochet to the end.
-To alter the length of your wrap, chain multiples of 4 + 2 or FHDC multiples of 4 +1.
Pattern
FHDC 225
Row 1: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 2-5: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 6: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)
Row 7: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)
Row 8-11: repeat row 6 and 7 (225)
Row 12-16: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 17: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)
Row 18: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)
Row 19-22: repeat row 18 and 19 (225)
Row 23-27: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Row 28: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into the fourth st, ch 1, count two sts back and dc in to it (this creates a X), dc into the following st *skip 2 sts and dc into the third st, ch1, dc into the first st you skipped, dc into the next st* repeat to the end, turn your work (225)
Row 29: ch 3 (count as dc), dc into first st, skip the next st, *dc into the next ch sp (between the X), skip the next two sts, dc in the next st, dc in to the first skipped st* repeat til you have on 3 sts and your turning ch left, dc in the ch sp, skip the next st, 2dc into the top of turning ch, turn your work (225)
Row 30-33: repeat rows 28 and 29 (225)
Row 34-38: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc across, turn your work (225)
Hope you enjoyed this pattern and happy crocheting!
XO,
Laura
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Buzy Bee Keychain is a quick and easy pattern. Bring a cute little bumble bee along for the ride without getting a sting in the butt because you accidentally sat on it.
Honestly, I am not a huge bee fan at all. Sure I love their honey and sure I'm aware of their importance. BUUUUUUUUT, I've gotten stung enough times that I legit have a reason to not to like them.
But hey! Now I can say I like them as long as they're squishy and made out of yarn. I hope that you love this itty bitty busy bumble bee pattern!
Honestly, I am not a huge bee fan at all. Sure I love their honey and sure I'm aware of their importance. BUUUUUUUUT, I've gotten stung enough times that I legit have a reason to not to like them.
But hey! Now I can say I like them as long as they're squishy and made out of yarn. I hope that you love this itty bitty busy bumble bee pattern!
Pattern
For the ad-free and inexpensive PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry. The PDF version comes with additional step-by-step pictures.
To pin this pattern for later, visit Pinterest.
Materials
-any worsted weight yarn (yellow, black, and white, Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn was used in the picture)
-one pair of 9mm or 10 mm safety eyes
-poly-fil stuffing
-a keychain of your choice
-3.5 mm or 4.0mm hook
-tapestry needle
Abbreviations
sc- single crochet
inc- single crochet increase (2 single crochets in 1 stitch)
invdec- invisible decrease
slst- slip stitch
ch- chain
mc- magic circle
* - repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk
( )- the number of stitches at the end of the round
Notes
Make stitches tight as to not let the stuffing come through the stitches.
Chain 1 in the beginning of each round doesn’t count as a stitch.
Be careful not to slip stitch into the previous round’s slip stitch or to single crochet into it.
Wings (Make 2)
Ch6
Row 1: dc into the 3rdch from the hook, hdc into the next ch, sc in the next 2 sts.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Body
Round 1: With yellow yarn, create a MR and crochet 6 sc into the ring
Round 2: *sc, 2sc in the next* repeat 3 times, sl st into the next st (9)
Round 3: ch1, sc in the same st as your slst, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, *sc in the next 2 sts, 2sc in the next* repeat 2 times, sl st into the next st (12)
Round 4: ch1, sc in the same st as your slst, sc in the next 2 sts , 2 sc in the next st, *sc in the next 3 sts, 2sc in the next* repeat 2 times, sl st into the next st (15)
Round 5: ch1, sc in the same st as your slst, sc around into the next 14 sts, sl st into the next st (switch to black yarn when pulling up a loop for your slip stitch) (15)
Insert your hook into the next stitch to slip stitch.
Yarn over with the black and pull through all loops on your hook. Leave your yellow yarn because you will pick it back up later.
Round 6: ch 1, sc in the same spot as where you slst into, sc around in the next 14 sts, slst in the next st (15)
Round 7: ch 1, sc in the same spot as where you slst into, sc around in the next 14 sts, slst in the next st (switch to yellow yarn when pulling up a loop for your slip stitch) (15)
Put your safety eyes in now and get some black yarn to sew in your smile. Place your eyes between rows 3 and 4 and 3-4 sts apart. Hold your Amigurumi so that the slip stitched are facing downward and the least visible.
Round 8: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, sc around in the next 14 sts, sl st in the next st (15)
Round 9: ch1, sc in to the st where you last sl st into, sc around in the next 14 sts, sl st in the next st (15)
Sew in your wings, half of the wing over a row of black and the other half over a row of yellow. Refer to picture.
Row 10: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, sc in the next 2 sts, invdec in the next st *sc in the next 3 sts, invdec* repeat 2 times, sl st in the next st (12)
Row 11: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, sc in the next st, invdec in the next st *sc in the next 2 sts, invdec* repeat 2 times, sl st in the next st (9)
Stuff your bee with poly-fil.
Row 12: ch1, sc in the ch where you last slst, invdec *sc in the next sts, invdec* repeat 2 times, sl st in the next st (6)
Fasten off, stuff the rest of your bee firmly and close your bee’s rear end. Weave in any loose ends.
I hope that this pattern was a fun one for you and that your buzy bee gets to accompany you on many sweet trips.
Happy crocheting!
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
Happy crocheting!
This post may contain affiliate links. I am paid a small commission if you make a purchase through the links on my site. Thank you for supporting my blog in this way.
The Fauxy Cocoon is by far my most worn crocheted item that I personally designed. The shrug is made with Lion Brand's Go For Faux and Coboo. Not only are these two yarns soft, it really brings the heat. If you are someone who easily gets cold, please don't hesitate with this one. You will want to hibernate in it all winter long.
When Lion Brand released the Go For Faux yarn, I couldn't resist ordering a dozen skeins of it and I am so glad that I did. I couldn't stop petting the skeins when my box arrived and then it dawned on me that I had no idea what to do them. Then I wondered how this yarn would feel like if I had it wrapped around my body. I'm so happy that I ended up designing this cocoon because it saved me from a very cold winter last year.
Pattern
For the ad-free and inexpensive PDF version, please visit Etsy or Ravelry. The PDF version comes with additional step-by-step pictures for the collar and cuffs.
Materials
-10.0mm hook
-5.5 mm hook
-tapestry needle
-lint roller
Gauge
Body: every 7 stitches and 4 rows = 4"
Ribbing: every 6 stitches and 7 rows = 2"
Measurements
The body (essentially a rectangle) in S/M is roughly around 33“ x 36” and for L/XL 35”x 38”.
For S/M, the width of your rectangle should measure 33" across and for L/X 35" across. Adjust your tension or switch to a different hook size if needed.
Small/Medium: Wrist to Wrist 50 “, Length from top to bottom 38”
Large/X-Large: Wrist-to-Wrist 52”, Length from top to bottom 40”
Keep in mind that when worn, it has the ability to stretch.
Abbreviations
ch- chain
slst- slip stitch
st(s)- stitch(es)
sp(s)- spaces
sc- single crochet
dc- double
dc2tog-double crochet 2 together
rSC- reverse single crochet
Notes
Please check your gauge. I recommend doing a swatch before beginning. Adjust your tension or hook size to achieve the gauge.
If you would like to make your cocoon smaller or larger, simply chain an odd number plus 4 for your starting chain or simply crochet more rows.
If you are finding your rectangle turning out smaller than anticipated, simply crochet more rows.
Beginning chain counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
Pattern
Chain 59 (63)
Row 1: dc into the 5th ch from the hook (counts as a dc and a st), *ch 1 and skip a st, dc in the next st* repeat to the end, ch 3, turn your work (57 (28 ch sps and 29 dc), 61 (30 ch sps and 31 dc))
Row 2: ch3, *dc into the next ch sp, ch 1 and skip a st* repeat to the end, dc in the last ch sp, turn your work (57, 61)
Row 3-36 (38) : Repeat row 2
Lay your finished piece on the floor with the foundation chain on the left and the last row on the right.
Fold your piece in half by pulling the top down to the bottom.
With your tapestry needle and some Coboo yarn, sew up the sides stopping at the double crochets after the 7th chain space. (Make sure that all double crochets and chain spaces are aligned to their respective counterparts.)
I used the mattress stitch to seam up the sides of the body.
You should have 14 (16) chain spaces that are not seamed. We will continue working into these chain spaces to create a sleeve.
We will work in one direction for the remainder of the sleeve.
With your 10.0mm hook, attach the faux fur yarn to the last double crochet where you seamed.
Sleeves
Row 1: ch3 (counts as a st and ch 1 and for the remainder of the sleeve), dc into the first ch1 sp, *ch 1 and skip a st, dc into the next ch sp* repeat to the end, ch1 slst into the first ch sp of the row (15 ch sps, 17 ch sps)
Row 2: ch3, dc2tog in the next two ch sps , *ch 1 and skip a st, dc into the next ch sp* repeat until you have two ch sps left, ch1, dc2tog in the last two ch sps, slst into the turning chain (13 ch sps, 15 ch sps)
*Note*
Row 3: ch3, dc2tog (insert in the ch sp before and after the previous row’s dc2tog), *ch 1 and skip a st, dc into the next ch sp* repeat until you have two ch sps left, dc2tog, slst into the turning chain (11 ch sps 19 ch sps)
Row 4: repeat row 3 (9 ch sps, 13 ch sps)
SIZE SMALl/MEDIUM **(SIZE L/XL skip down to SIZE LARGE/X-LARGE)**
Row 5: ch 3, dc in the next ch sp (the ch sp before the last row’s dc2tog), *ch1, dc in the next ch sp* repeat to the end, sl st into the beginning ch (9 ch sps)
SIZE LARGE/X-LARGE
Row 5: repeat row 3 (11 ch sps)
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Cuffs
With your 5.5mm hook, hold two strands of your Coboo yarn together and attach it into a chain space at the bottom of the armhole opening (where it will be least visible when worn).
Row 1:ch 3 (counts as a dc), 3 dc in the same ch sp where you attached your yarn, *4 dc in the next ch sp* repeat to the end, sl st into the top of the ch 3 from the beginning of the row (36, 44)
Row 2:ch 3 (counts as a dc), *dc into the 3rd loop of the dc from the previous row* repeat to the end, sl st into the top of the ch 3 from the beginning of the row (36, 44)
Row 3: ch 1, rsc across
Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Do the same to the other armhole.
Collar
With your 5.5mm hook, hold two strands of your Coboo yarn together and attach it into a chain space somewhere on the bottom of your cocoon.
Row 1: ch3, 3dc in the same ch sp you attached your ch 3, *4 dc in the next ch sp* repeat to the end, slst to the top of the ch 3 from the beginning on the row (288, 304)
Row 2: ch3, *dc in the 3rd loop of each dc from the previous row* repeat to the end, slst into the top of ch 3 from the beginning of the row (288, 304)
Row 3-10: repeat row 2
Row 11: ch 1, rsc to the end, slst into the ch 1 from the beginning of the row (288, 304)
Fasten off and weave in all your loose ends. Give it a good roll with the lint roller.
Hope that you were able to complete your own Fauxy Cocoon cause it is a definite must-have. As always, I would love to hear from you! Keep in touch via social media!
Happy crocheting!
I truly give my respect to those crocheters who design Amigurumi. I feel like it takes a lot of patience to work with only single crochet and the tapestry needle. Does anyone else dread sewing and weaving in ends into small Amigurumi parts? For this reason, the only Amigurumi patterns I will design will be little keychains. Whenever you have scraps of yarn, come on over to Modesty and see if you can use any of those scraps to make a small cute keychain. I'll do my best to keep adding small keychain patterns on this blog.
To tell you the truth, I wasn't planning on designing anymore Amigurumi patterns, at least not so soon. However, my children's Sunday School teacher ordered ten keychains.
You see, I had made a bunch of Amigurumi keychains for several craft fairs last fall. However, I wasn't making enough money to make it worth while. So with the leftover keychains that I had, I gifted them all to the children and Sunday School teachers for Christmas. So, a week and a half ago my kids' Sunday School teacher ordered ten keychains and I happily said yes. After posting a picture of some of them on Instagram, I decided to write up a few of the Amigurumi keychain patterns I had crocheted for her. So today I will be sharing with you This Little Piggy Keychain.
I think the timing of releasing this keychain is perfect. Lunar New Year is next Tuesday and this year is the year of the pig. Plus, who doesn't like a cute pig?
Materials
-any worsted weight yarn (pink and brown, Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn was used in the picture)
-one pair of 9mm or 10 mm safety eyes
-stitch marker
-polyfil stuffing
-a keychain of your choice
-3.5 mm or 4.0mm hook
-tapestry Needle
-one pair of 9mm or 10 mm safety eyes
-stitch marker
-polyfil stuffing
-a keychain of your choice
-3.5 mm or 4.0mm hook
-tapestry Needle
Abbreviations
sc- single crochet
inc- single crochet increase (2 single crochets in 1 stitch)
invdec- invisible decrease If you are unfamiliar with this stitch
slst- slip stitch
* - repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk
MR- magic ring If you are unfamiliar with the magic ring or magic circle
( )- the number of stitches at the end of the round
inc- single crochet increase (2 single crochets in 1 stitch)
invdec- invisible decrease If you are unfamiliar with this stitch
slst- slip stitch
* - repeat stitches from first asterisk to second asterisk
MR- magic ring If you are unfamiliar with the magic ring or magic circle
( )- the number of stitches at the end of the round
Notes
Make stitches tight as to not let the stuffing come through the stitches.
Pattern
Ears (Make 2)
Round 1: Create a MR and crochet 5 sc into the ring, pull on the tail to close the MR
Round 2: sc around (5)
Round 3: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 2 sts (this round will not be finished)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Snout
Round 1: Create a MR and crochet 5hdc into the ring, sl st into the first hdc, pull on the tail to close the MR
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Head
Create a MRRound 1: crochet 6 sc into the ring, pull on the tail to close the MR
Round 2: *2sc in the next st* 6 times (12)
Round 3: *sc in the next st, 2sc in the next* (18)
Round 4: *sc in the next 2 sts, 2sc in the next st* (24)
Round 5: sc around
Round 6-7: Repeat row 5
Round 8: *sc in the next 2 sts, invdec*repeat 6 times (18)
Round 9: sc across
Sew in your ears. This is the time to attach your keychain.
Sew on your pig’s nose. Get some brown yarn and make nostrils on your piggy’s little snout. Place your safety eyes between rows 7 and 8 about 3 sts apart. Stuff your pig with poly-fil.
Fasten off and fill up on poly-fil and close up the bottom. I find that using the end of a pencil with an eraser does a good job getting the poly-fil inside the head. Weave in your loose end.
Hope you enjoyed this pattern. As always, leave your thoughts and comments down below. I would love to hear from you!
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